While Tamimi may conjure up images of a
pacific island paradise, the bleaker reality is one of two United Nations
compounds in the heart of Baghdad’s Green or International Zone (IZ). It is
home to more than a hundred staff from the UN mission in Iraq (UNAMI) plus
burgeoning numbers from an alphabet soup of international agencies. Members of
the multinational teams whether working to inoculate children against disease,
to settle and feed people fleeing from Syria and Anbar province, or to
strengthen Iraq’s fragile system of governance, stay in pre fab containers
alongside the security staff who protect them and the contingent of Fijian
soldiers who guard the compound. Some of the staff have been there years, (with
monthly breaks), others like me come for a few days for specific assignments.
Within hours of arriving, not so distant
booms were followed by a loudspeaker instruction to stay indoors until further
notice. An email reported an ongoing wave of explosions in the Baghdad area,
small arms fire and movement of security forces. It was left to CNN to break
the news that one of the targets was a juvenile detention centre with two guards killed and more than twenty escapes.
The attack cast a shadow over our
planned visit to Rusafa prison, intended to form part of a five day training
workshop organised for the Iraqi Correctional Service . Prisons have been
targeted by Al-Qaeda across the region since last summer. While the Rusafa
prisons are in the highly fortified perimeter of the Ministry of Interior,
crucially they are in the Red Zone- a short drive but a world away from the
eerily empty IZ , the ghost town that is
home to the international community of diplomats, aid workers and contractors ,
but it seems scarcely anyone else.
Venturing into the Red Zone requires
close protection officers and an armed convoy and with limited resources
support for missions has to be rationed. VIP visits and a long range mission
meant our visit could not be supported until well after the workshop had
finished.
Difficulties of international staff
getting out of the IZ is matched by the problems Iraqis face in getting in. The
stringent security meant the fourteen participants in our workshop could not
arrive before 9.15 a.m. and had to leave by 2p.m. Bussed in and out of the IZ
and checked numerous times, they reached the workshop venue not a little dazed
and perhaps embarrassed by being on the receiving end of procedures they are
more used to applying to others. Disappointed by the UN’s inability to
authorise our visit to one of their prisons, the ICS staff none the less worked
hard in the classroom at developing plans to bring their institutions into line
with international standards. UNAMI’s human rights monitors may be able to
check whether plans become reality, but their visits to prisons, like all
missions into the Red Zone are severely restricted both in terms of time and
place.
The technical limitations on UN
activities are coupled with a political reluctance to embrace international
norms. On the first day of our workshop, 26 death sentence prisoners were hanged - just a week after Ban Ki Moon had urged the country to suspend executions during his visit to Baghdad.
While security restrictions may
frustrate the ability of agencies to do their work, they also shape everyday
life at Tamimi and in the IZ. There is a curfew for staff and walking and
cycling in the IZ is prohibited at any
time of day. The UN’s Security Chief,
visiting while we were in Baghdad, was told about the inhibiting impact of the
regimen, but given that the UN’s
measures are considerably less stringent
than those operated by some other embassies, the deaths of UN staff in Kabul
last weekend and the upcoming
elections, any relaxation seems
unlikely.